RJ45 Lan up to 200 feet? [modified]
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so buy a dedicated accesspoint for the directional link. It's still cheaper than digging and burying a wire.
Today's lesson is brought to you by the word "niggardly". Remember kids, don't attribute to racism what can be explained by Scandinavian language roots. -- Robert Royall
I agree...!
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IF you do go the buried route, consider running a few extra lengths of cable that you don't use. It's much easier to install replacements/extra capacity during the initial excavation instead of having to dig again.
Today's lesson is brought to you by the word "niggardly". Remember kids, don't attribute to racism what can be explained by Scandinavian language roots. -- Robert Royall
My dear Dan Arrrrgh..every time I see your signature it increases the potential that I may use that ridiculously harmed word in conversation around others :omg:
Do we weigh less at high tide?
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I will be running a lan to an out-building (better than an out-house), and it looks like it will be about 200 feet of a wire path. Should that distance be able to be handled by a typical router such as Belkin wireless (already have a Wireless G with lan ports but does not provide enough bandwidth signal in the out-building) or the likes? Most I have had to deal with RJ45 is about 30' to 50'. Update: Thanks everyone for the help, it is appreciated!
Rocky <>< Recent Blog Post: Paper, Plastic or neither?
modified on Thursday, September 18, 2008 8:50 AM
I have been using cheap fiber converters for this situation for years. If you have a surge issue of any kind, any difference in ground potential will go right through your equipment. The converters are about $100 new but you can get them for less than $10 each if you watch ebay. Converter Same with the fiber. 100m indoor patch cords with the connectors are $50 or more but if you watch you can get them cheap. I have the equipment to do my own terminations but it actually costs more, especially if you factor in my time. 100 meter patch cord You can use this orange indoor stuff if you carefully pull it through the conduit. I bought about a 50 rolls a few years ago for less than $10 each and we use is exposed on this wooden bridge that gets taken down every winter (and sometimes unexpectedly from flooding). Golf bridge in top photo We string it across just outside the railing with a few tie-wraps. Sometimes we can get two installations out of it but it's just as easy to throw it away. The only time it failed (besides flooding) was from a weedwacker. There are boxes on each end where the rest of the run is direct burial indoor/outdoor (also from ebay). It's used for a point of sale PC for the golfers to eat and drink. We have a second run for a spare that is a on a separate physical network that supplies WiFi out there "just because we can."
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Actually, I plan to house it slightly undergound in PVC. Should keep me safe except for moles :)
Rocky <>< Recent Blog Post: Paper, Plastic or neither?
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I will be running a lan to an out-building (better than an out-house), and it looks like it will be about 200 feet of a wire path. Should that distance be able to be handled by a typical router such as Belkin wireless (already have a Wireless G with lan ports but does not provide enough bandwidth signal in the out-building) or the likes? Most I have had to deal with RJ45 is about 30' to 50'. Update: Thanks everyone for the help, it is appreciated!
Rocky <>< Recent Blog Post: Paper, Plastic or neither?
modified on Thursday, September 18, 2008 8:50 AM
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Sounds good to me! Will have to get this in over the next month to make sure I get there before our ground freezes :)
Rocky <>< Recent Blog Post: Paper, Plastic or neither?
What sort of conduit are you running it through? or are you hanging it from poles :( ?
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Actually, I plan to house it slightly undergound in PVC. Should keep me safe except for moles :)
Rocky <>< Recent Blog Post: Paper, Plastic or neither?
Rocky Moore wrote:
Actually, I plan to house it slightly undergound in PVC. Should keep me safe except for moles
LOL that should teach me to read everything before commenting.
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My dear Dan Arrrrgh..every time I see your signature it increases the potential that I may use that ridiculously harmed word in conversation around others :omg:
Do we weigh less at high tide?
chris ruff wrote:
Do we weigh less at high tide?
Only half of them :laugh:
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Watch out for ground water in the conduit. I worked in a company that had underground conduit and the network went to cr*p everytime it rained.
If you run Cat5 or Cat5e from inside to outside or vice versa you will want to use a gel filled cable (outdoor rated). Even though you are going underground it will help ensure the longevity of the cable (if you are worried about it). 100 meters is the max length, but I've seen it work up to about 150 meters. You lose collision detection after 100 meters so your packets may get a little messed up on transfer! Remember any time you run cable in conduit pull in a piece of twine for future cables!
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Watch out for ground water in the conduit. I worked in a company that had underground conduit & the network went to cr*p everytime it rained!
I will probably seal the ends which will be above ground, should keep em safe ..
Rocky <>< Recent Blog Post: Going to Stanford University for free?
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I will probably seal the ends which will be above ground, should keep em safe ..
Rocky <>< Recent Blog Post: Going to Stanford University for free?
I was in exactly the same situation a few year back. I had a little lan room not to far from my house, so i bought a roll of Cat 5e and got 2 work. I use an ordanary DLink router, I got a max length of up to 125m, after that the packet lost was quite heavy, the latency also went up a substantial amount. I used noramal 15m lengths of PVC pipe to secure the line. I used normal silicon sealer to close the ends up, also used PVC gue to gue the 15 PVC pipes together. So there you have it! works like a charm!