Anybody know anything about potentiometers? [modified]
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Have you tried to use a multi-meter to test it? :)
Chris Meech I am Canadian. [heard in a local bar] In theory there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is. [Yogi Berra]
I don't have one of those, or anything of the sort. I was hoping the numbers on the front would give some indication.
My current favourite phrase: Iv'e seen better!
-SK Genius
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I need to replace one of these: http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/120/cimg0435g.jpg[^] But I don't know much about it, all I know is that if I give about £0.93 to Maplin they will give me a potentiometer that will fix a £50 steering wheel. So does anybody have any clue as to what the cryptic numbers are, like what kind of resistance I should be getting? The information I've gathered so far indicates that it's red, has three pins and it turns about 315 degrees. Update: Well Maplin don't have a pot of the right size and shape, but until I do find the correct one I have performed emergency surgery cracked open the teeny little pot cleaned off a build-up of stuff (presumably the material that the resistor is made of) from the back plate and clipped it back together. It's working for now but I wonder how long before it's just rubbing against plastic and it stops working completely.
My current favourite phrase: Iv'e seen better!
-SK Genius
Source Indexing and Symbol Servers[^]
modified on Tuesday, October 12, 2010 1:54 PM
I worked at Maplin many, many years ago. Take the old one with you and say "I need another one of these". They might not have it, but it's your best bet. Or do what most customers do and say "I need another x, for my y, I think it's a standard one." (without having the x with you, of course).
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I need to replace one of these: http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/120/cimg0435g.jpg[^] But I don't know much about it, all I know is that if I give about £0.93 to Maplin they will give me a potentiometer that will fix a £50 steering wheel. So does anybody have any clue as to what the cryptic numbers are, like what kind of resistance I should be getting? The information I've gathered so far indicates that it's red, has three pins and it turns about 315 degrees. Update: Well Maplin don't have a pot of the right size and shape, but until I do find the correct one I have performed emergency surgery cracked open the teeny little pot cleaned off a build-up of stuff (presumably the material that the resistor is made of) from the back plate and clipped it back together. It's working for now but I wonder how long before it's just rubbing against plastic and it stops working completely.
My current favourite phrase: Iv'e seen better!
-SK Genius
Source Indexing and Symbol Servers[^]
modified on Tuesday, October 12, 2010 1:54 PM
As Chris says, measure it if you can (probably not since you wouldn't replace it if it worked...), but teh 104A across the top should mean it is a 100K (104, 10 followed by 4 zeros) Log (or Audio) pot. If it is pretty old, it could be linear (the old marking for linear was A, now B, and the old marking for Log was C now A. Don't blame me, I'm a software engineer!).
Real men don't use instructions. They are only the manufacturers opinion on how to put the thing together.
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I need to replace one of these: http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/120/cimg0435g.jpg[^] But I don't know much about it, all I know is that if I give about £0.93 to Maplin they will give me a potentiometer that will fix a £50 steering wheel. So does anybody have any clue as to what the cryptic numbers are, like what kind of resistance I should be getting? The information I've gathered so far indicates that it's red, has three pins and it turns about 315 degrees. Update: Well Maplin don't have a pot of the right size and shape, but until I do find the correct one I have performed emergency surgery cracked open the teeny little pot cleaned off a build-up of stuff (presumably the material that the resistor is made of) from the back plate and clipped it back together. It's working for now but I wonder how long before it's just rubbing against plastic and it stops working completely.
My current favourite phrase: Iv'e seen better!
-SK Genius
Source Indexing and Symbol Servers[^]
modified on Tuesday, October 12, 2010 1:54 PM
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As Chris says, measure it if you can (probably not since you wouldn't replace it if it worked...), but teh 104A across the top should mean it is a 100K (104, 10 followed by 4 zeros) Log (or Audio) pot. If it is pretty old, it could be linear (the old marking for linear was A, now B, and the old marking for Log was C now A. Don't blame me, I'm a software engineer!).
Real men don't use instructions. They are only the manufacturers opinion on how to put the thing together.
That is probably a pretty good answer. I have two comments: 1. There is a good chance one can still measure total resistance when the cursor, or one of the terminals, is broken. 2. I don't expect a log potentiometer in a steering wheel; position is a pretty linear thing IMO. :)
Luc Pattyn [Forum Guidelines] [Why QA sucks] [My Articles] Nil Volentibus Arduum
Please use <PRE> tags for code snippets, they preserve indentation, and improve readability.
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That is probably a pretty good answer. I have two comments: 1. There is a good chance one can still measure total resistance when the cursor, or one of the terminals, is broken. 2. I don't expect a log potentiometer in a steering wheel; position is a pretty linear thing IMO. :)
Luc Pattyn [Forum Guidelines] [Why QA sucks] [My Articles] Nil Volentibus Arduum
Please use <PRE> tags for code snippets, they preserve indentation, and improve readability.
Luc Pattyn wrote:
There is a good chance one can still measure total resistance when the cursor, or one of the terminals, is broken.
Very true - I've done it enough times!
Luc Pattyn wrote:
I don't expect a log potentiometer in a steering wheel; position is a pretty linear thing IMO
Depends what it is there for - it looks like a trimpot to me, it may not be beefy enough to be physically attached to the wheel. :laugh:
Real men don't use instructions. They are only the manufacturers opinion on how to put the thing together.
-
I need to replace one of these: http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/120/cimg0435g.jpg[^] But I don't know much about it, all I know is that if I give about £0.93 to Maplin they will give me a potentiometer that will fix a £50 steering wheel. So does anybody have any clue as to what the cryptic numbers are, like what kind of resistance I should be getting? The information I've gathered so far indicates that it's red, has three pins and it turns about 315 degrees. Update: Well Maplin don't have a pot of the right size and shape, but until I do find the correct one I have performed emergency surgery cracked open the teeny little pot cleaned off a build-up of stuff (presumably the material that the resistor is made of) from the back plate and clipped it back together. It's working for now but I wonder how long before it's just rubbing against plastic and it stops working completely.
My current favourite phrase: Iv'e seen better!
-SK Genius
Source Indexing and Symbol Servers[^]
modified on Tuesday, October 12, 2010 1:54 PM
what Griff said, plus this: 1. I doubt it would be a logarithmic one. 2. I would expect a smaller value than 100K, although that is what the stamps suggest. 3. Every software person needs a multimeter; go get one right away! They come in a range of quality, functionality and price. 4. If you have a low-voltage source (say 10V), a 10K resistor and an LED, you can lit it faintly (it would take 10mA to lit properly); if you connect a second 10K in parallel, it should be twice as bright. So try the outer poles of the potentiometer as your second resistor to check it is well above 10Kohm or not. Warning: if you short-circuit the resistor, you'll blow the LED. 5. you could order a few (100K lin, 10K lin, 100K log, 10K log), postage will probably exceed material cost anyway. 6. you could call a friend with more hardware skills and buy him some :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :)
Luc Pattyn [Forum Guidelines] [Why QA sucks] [My Articles] Nil Volentibus Arduum
Please use <PRE> tags for code snippets, they preserve indentation, and improve readability.
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what Griff said, plus this: 1. I doubt it would be a logarithmic one. 2. I would expect a smaller value than 100K, although that is what the stamps suggest. 3. Every software person needs a multimeter; go get one right away! They come in a range of quality, functionality and price. 4. If you have a low-voltage source (say 10V), a 10K resistor and an LED, you can lit it faintly (it would take 10mA to lit properly); if you connect a second 10K in parallel, it should be twice as bright. So try the outer poles of the potentiometer as your second resistor to check it is well above 10Kohm or not. Warning: if you short-circuit the resistor, you'll blow the LED. 5. you could order a few (100K lin, 10K lin, 100K log, 10K log), postage will probably exceed material cost anyway. 6. you could call a friend with more hardware skills and buy him some :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :)
Luc Pattyn [Forum Guidelines] [Why QA sucks] [My Articles] Nil Volentibus Arduum
Please use <PRE> tags for code snippets, they preserve indentation, and improve readability.
Luc Pattyn wrote:
you could call a friend with more hardware skills and buy him some Beer Beer Beer Beer Beer
Best not to buy them until he has finished the job though!
------------------------------------ I will never again mention that I was the poster of the One Millionth Lounge Post, nor that it was complete drivel. Dalek Dave CCC League Table Link CCC Link[^]
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what Griff said, plus this: 1. I doubt it would be a logarithmic one. 2. I would expect a smaller value than 100K, although that is what the stamps suggest. 3. Every software person needs a multimeter; go get one right away! They come in a range of quality, functionality and price. 4. If you have a low-voltage source (say 10V), a 10K resistor and an LED, you can lit it faintly (it would take 10mA to lit properly); if you connect a second 10K in parallel, it should be twice as bright. So try the outer poles of the potentiometer as your second resistor to check it is well above 10Kohm or not. Warning: if you short-circuit the resistor, you'll blow the LED. 5. you could order a few (100K lin, 10K lin, 100K log, 10K log), postage will probably exceed material cost anyway. 6. you could call a friend with more hardware skills and buy him some :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :)
Luc Pattyn [Forum Guidelines] [Why QA sucks] [My Articles] Nil Volentibus Arduum
Please use <PRE> tags for code snippets, they preserve indentation, and improve readability.
I live near an actual store so I may as well just go in and buy a few different ones. And maybe a multimeter while I'm there. It's been about 6 years since I needed to use one, it would have made figuring this out easier though. Unfortunately I don't have any hardware typey friends so I suppose I'll do what I usually do with these types of things, which is to stumble blindly through the dark and eventually find a solution (usually by luck) then give myself a pat on the back and a :beer: for being so darned clever. ;P
My current favourite phrase: Iv'e seen better!
-SK Genius
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I live near an actual store so I may as well just go in and buy a few different ones. And maybe a multimeter while I'm there. It's been about 6 years since I needed to use one, it would have made figuring this out easier though. Unfortunately I don't have any hardware typey friends so I suppose I'll do what I usually do with these types of things, which is to stumble blindly through the dark and eventually find a solution (usually by luck) then give myself a pat on the back and a :beer: for being so darned clever. ;P
My current favourite phrase: Iv'e seen better!
-SK Genius
You can ask for one potentiometer, check the stamps, and take it from there. Or make new friends at Maplin, and get it done for you. I'm sure they need their software fixed. :laugh: Assuming the object under your care isn't ancient: Are you soldering lead-free? have the tools and materials for it? :)
Luc Pattyn [Forum Guidelines] [Why QA sucks] [My Articles] Nil Volentibus Arduum
Please use <PRE> tags for code snippets, they preserve indentation, and improve readability.
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You can ask for one potentiometer, check the stamps, and take it from there. Or make new friends at Maplin, and get it done for you. I'm sure they need their software fixed. :laugh: Assuming the object under your care isn't ancient: Are you soldering lead-free? have the tools and materials for it? :)
Luc Pattyn [Forum Guidelines] [Why QA sucks] [My Articles] Nil Volentibus Arduum
Please use <PRE> tags for code snippets, they preserve indentation, and improve readability.
No soldering required, the object in question is a logitech steering wheel I'm not sure how old it is but it's at least 5 years. It has a little connector that's already attached to the board so you can just plug in a new pot (or a new motor if you needed). I do have a soldering iron and solder though. Both quite old though, unknown age.
My current favourite phrase: Iv'e seen better!
-SK Genius
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No soldering required, the object in question is a logitech steering wheel I'm not sure how old it is but it's at least 5 years. It has a little connector that's already attached to the board so you can just plug in a new pot (or a new motor if you needed). I do have a soldering iron and solder though. Both quite old though, unknown age.
My current favourite phrase: Iv'e seen better!
-SK Genius
SK Genius wrote:
unknown age
aka lead age. the industry has switched to lead-free soldering, different solder, different temperatures. just trying to save the environment (while others pollute the Mexican Gulf and the not-so-blue-anymore Danube). :)
Luc Pattyn [Forum Guidelines] [Why QA sucks] [My Articles] Nil Volentibus Arduum
Please use <PRE> tags for code snippets, they preserve indentation, and improve readability.
-
No soldering required, the object in question is a logitech steering wheel I'm not sure how old it is but it's at least 5 years. It has a little connector that's already attached to the board so you can just plug in a new pot (or a new motor if you needed). I do have a soldering iron and solder though. Both quite old though, unknown age.
My current favourite phrase: Iv'e seen better!
-SK Genius
Be aware that if they are ten years or more old, the solder (and the layer of solder on the iron tip) is likely to be leaded. This does not mix well with more modern (and legal!) lead free, which also generally needs a higher temperature. It may be worth buying a new tip and solder anyway - they aren't that expensive.
Real men don't use instructions. They are only the manufacturers opinion on how to put the thing together.
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what Griff said, plus this: 1. I doubt it would be a logarithmic one. 2. I would expect a smaller value than 100K, although that is what the stamps suggest. 3. Every software person needs a multimeter; go get one right away! They come in a range of quality, functionality and price. 4. If you have a low-voltage source (say 10V), a 10K resistor and an LED, you can lit it faintly (it would take 10mA to lit properly); if you connect a second 10K in parallel, it should be twice as bright. So try the outer poles of the potentiometer as your second resistor to check it is well above 10Kohm or not. Warning: if you short-circuit the resistor, you'll blow the LED. 5. you could order a few (100K lin, 10K lin, 100K log, 10K log), postage will probably exceed material cost anyway. 6. you could call a friend with more hardware skills and buy him some :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :)
Luc Pattyn [Forum Guidelines] [Why QA sucks] [My Articles] Nil Volentibus Arduum
Please use <PRE> tags for code snippets, they preserve indentation, and improve readability.
-
I live near an actual store so I may as well just go in and buy a few different ones. And maybe a multimeter while I'm there. It's been about 6 years since I needed to use one, it would have made figuring this out easier though. Unfortunately I don't have any hardware typey friends so I suppose I'll do what I usually do with these types of things, which is to stumble blindly through the dark and eventually find a solution (usually by luck) then give myself a pat on the back and a :beer: for being so darned clever. ;P
My current favourite phrase: Iv'e seen better!
-SK Genius
If you have to replace it there's not much reason to test it considering it's probably broken. However if you are confident it's the reason for the problem a much more common scenario is broken solder trace on the circuit board broken connector not making contact.
“If you want to build a ship, don't drum up people together to collect wood and don't assign them tasks and work, but rather teach them to long for the endless immensity of the sea” - Antoine de Saint-Exupery
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If you have to replace it there's not much reason to test it considering it's probably broken. However if you are confident it's the reason for the problem a much more common scenario is broken solder trace on the circuit board broken connector not making contact.
“If you want to build a ship, don't drum up people together to collect wood and don't assign them tasks and work, but rather teach them to long for the endless immensity of the sea” - Antoine de Saint-Exupery
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Luc Pattyn wrote:
you could call a friend with more hardware skills and buy him some Beer Beer Beer Beer Beer
Best not to buy them until he has finished the job though!
------------------------------------ I will never again mention that I was the poster of the One Millionth Lounge Post, nor that it was complete drivel. Dalek Dave CCC League Table Link CCC Link[^]
Dalek Dave wrote:
Luc Pattyn wrote: you could call a friend with more hardware skills and buy him some Beer Beer Beer Beer Beer Best not to buy them until he has finished the job though!
Lest he turns a soldering iron into a slaughtering iron.
