Swords
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Brian Delahunty wrote: Attacking the new shopping cart? No, just venting my frustrations on the the old one that wouldn't allow me to do international business. But for some strange reason, the UPS guy leaves all my packages outside the garage door now... Chistopher Duncan Author - The Career Programmer: Guerilla Tactics for an Imperfect World (Apress)
Christopher Duncan wrote: But for some strange reason, the UPS guy leaves all my packages outside the garage door now... Put the sword down Chris... The UPS people know no different.. Chris.... Noooooooooooo....!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Regards, Brian Dela :-)
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Buy Arksansas stone sharpener (large), also long time ago, I saw two sticks made of some kind of polymer (or rubber?) with diamond dust embeded in it. That one you would use to sharpen japanese swords, tanto knifes and knifes made of damascus steel - to srarpen and not damage rest of the blade. Unfortunately, I cannot remember what's manufacturer. Hovever here is excerpt from www.coldsteel.com [^]web site: For stainless steels: If the edge requires repair (to remove chips or dinks) or if the cantle has to be reestablished one should begin with a coarse silicon carbide stone (Norton's Crystolon Bench Stone). Initial sharpening should be done with a medium silicon carbide (Norton's Crystolon) or medium aluminum oxide stone (Norton's India Stone). To further refine the edge a fine aluminum oxide stone (Norton's India Stone) would be the next step, followed by a Soft Arkansas for final sharpening. If an extremely refined edge is desired, follow the Soft Arkansas with a Hard Arkansas or 6000-8000 grit Japanese Water Stone. Any ceramic system will work if there is not going to be a lot of material to be removed along the edge (the Sharpmaker by Spyderco is especially good for serrated models). For carbon steels: The same procedure as listed above will work for carbon steels but we have had better results using only the Japanese water stones (Japanese water stones can be found at most woodworking supply stores and catalogs). We suggest beginning with an 800 or 1000 grit water stone and progressing through a 1200-1400 grit and finishing with a 6000-8000 grit stone. Rolled edges: A rolled edge can be sharpened to its original configuration by using a slack belt on a belt sander (320-400 grit belt) to get a consistent burr and then polishing the burr off with a buffer or leather strop. One can also simply redefine the edge by establishing a cantle on it as outlined above. SDK Maintenance Programmer
Great information, thanks man! Chistopher Duncan Author - The Career Programmer: Guerilla Tactics for an Imperfect World (Apress)
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Ray Cassick wrote: Those suckers can be sharp! That's rather the point. ;) Chistopher Duncan Author - The Career Programmer: Guerilla Tactics for an Imperfect World (Apress)
Christopher Duncan wrote: the point :laugh: Pun intended right?:cool:
Steve McLenithan
Is Bert Evil? -
Any of you guys know anything about sharpening (real) swords? Chistopher Duncan Author - The Career Programmer: Guerilla Tactics for an Imperfect World (Apress)
What do you need to know? It's a big knife, that's all. Power tools are definitely a no-no for anything but cheap, grocery store kitchen cutlery. For everything else a hand job is mandatory. If you live in an area where foot-driven water or oil stones are available, that would make a decent rough sharpening tool without heating the blade enough to ruin the temper. Rough sharpening is the time to set the bevel and work out any knicks in the blade. That done, a medium oilstone and lots of hours of patient whetting brings the edge to a fine pitch, and removes the scratch marks from the rough sharpening. When the edge looks smooth and uniform, like brushed aluminum, you move on to a finer stone for the final finish - an Arkansas hardstone is best for this. The final finish will be free of visible scratches and should remove any burrs or rollover from the edge. A finish with a leather strop will add a nice shiny polish to your handiwork. At all times the blade should be held at an angle against the stone and moved in a fashion that is similar to attempting to slice a thin sheet from the stone. The bevel used is critical - for a broadsword you'd use an angle more like an axe, as it is primarily a chopping instrument. For a thinner, lighter blade intended for slicing you'd want a more gradual rake. The thinner the edge you set, the harder it will be to maintain it, and the more vulnerable it will be to nicks. A thicker edge will hold its shape longer, but will be correspondingly harder to cut with. If you have any friends in Heidelberg, you might inquire there for guidance. That being said, I don't have a sword, but I've had many, many edged weapons in my life - knives, axes, tomahawks - and have enjoyed caring for them ( and throwing them:-) ) for years. The above process works beautifully on all of them, and will certainly give excellent results on a sword. I even treat my cheap kitchen knives this way.:cool: "Please don't put cigarette butts in the urinal. It makes them soggy and hard to light" - Sign in a Bullhead City, AZ Restroom
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What do you need to know? It's a big knife, that's all. Power tools are definitely a no-no for anything but cheap, grocery store kitchen cutlery. For everything else a hand job is mandatory. If you live in an area where foot-driven water or oil stones are available, that would make a decent rough sharpening tool without heating the blade enough to ruin the temper. Rough sharpening is the time to set the bevel and work out any knicks in the blade. That done, a medium oilstone and lots of hours of patient whetting brings the edge to a fine pitch, and removes the scratch marks from the rough sharpening. When the edge looks smooth and uniform, like brushed aluminum, you move on to a finer stone for the final finish - an Arkansas hardstone is best for this. The final finish will be free of visible scratches and should remove any burrs or rollover from the edge. A finish with a leather strop will add a nice shiny polish to your handiwork. At all times the blade should be held at an angle against the stone and moved in a fashion that is similar to attempting to slice a thin sheet from the stone. The bevel used is critical - for a broadsword you'd use an angle more like an axe, as it is primarily a chopping instrument. For a thinner, lighter blade intended for slicing you'd want a more gradual rake. The thinner the edge you set, the harder it will be to maintain it, and the more vulnerable it will be to nicks. A thicker edge will hold its shape longer, but will be correspondingly harder to cut with. If you have any friends in Heidelberg, you might inquire there for guidance. That being said, I don't have a sword, but I've had many, many edged weapons in my life - knives, axes, tomahawks - and have enjoyed caring for them ( and throwing them:-) ) for years. The above process works beautifully on all of them, and will certainly give excellent results on a sword. I even treat my cheap kitchen knives this way.:cool: "Please don't put cigarette butts in the urinal. It makes them soggy and hard to light" - Sign in a Bullhead City, AZ Restroom
Great stuff, man, thanks! Roger Wright wrote: It's a big knife, that's all. A certain scene from Crocidile Dundee comes to mind... :-) Chistopher Duncan Author - The Career Programmer: Guerilla Tactics for an Imperfect World (Apress)
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Great stuff, man, thanks! Roger Wright wrote: It's a big knife, that's all. A certain scene from Crocidile Dundee comes to mind... :-) Chistopher Duncan Author - The Career Programmer: Guerilla Tactics for an Imperfect World (Apress)
I had one of those, too, but it was a bit tough for someone my size to carry concealed.:suss: "Please don't put cigarette butts in the urinal. It makes them soggy and hard to light" - Sign in a Bullhead City, AZ Restroom
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Any of you guys know anything about sharpening (real) swords? Chistopher Duncan Author - The Career Programmer: Guerilla Tactics for an Imperfect World (Apress)
I agree with Rodger and Aleksandar, except on choice of abrasives. There are really good synthetic stones and papers out that do a much better job than natural stones. Depending on the condition of the blade, I would use a schedule like -> 200 grit, 400 grit, 1000 grit, 5 micron diamond paste.
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I agree with Rodger and Aleksandar, except on choice of abrasives. There are really good synthetic stones and papers out that do a much better job than natural stones. Depending on the condition of the blade, I would use a schedule like -> 200 grit, 400 grit, 1000 grit, 5 micron diamond paste.
Thanks, man. Any good suppliers you know of for this sort of thing? Chistopher Duncan Author - The Career Programmer: Guerilla Tactics for an Imperfect World (Apress)
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Any of you guys know anything about sharpening (real) swords? Chistopher Duncan Author - The Career Programmer: Guerilla Tactics for an Imperfect World (Apress)
Only on victims! ;P All three of mine (Viking, Medieval and Landsknecht shortswords) are intentionally blunted as they're reenactment blades. ;) Anna :rose: Homepage | My life in tears "Be yourself - not what others think you should be" - Marcia Graesch "Anna's just a sexy-looking lesbian tart" - A friend, trying to wind me up. It didn't work. Trouble with resource IDs? Try the Resource ID Organiser Visual C++ Add-In
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Buy Arksansas stone sharpener (large), also long time ago, I saw two sticks made of some kind of polymer (or rubber?) with diamond dust embeded in it. That one you would use to sharpen japanese swords, tanto knifes and knifes made of damascus steel - to srarpen and not damage rest of the blade. Unfortunately, I cannot remember what's manufacturer. Hovever here is excerpt from www.coldsteel.com [^]web site: For stainless steels: If the edge requires repair (to remove chips or dinks) or if the cantle has to be reestablished one should begin with a coarse silicon carbide stone (Norton's Crystolon Bench Stone). Initial sharpening should be done with a medium silicon carbide (Norton's Crystolon) or medium aluminum oxide stone (Norton's India Stone). To further refine the edge a fine aluminum oxide stone (Norton's India Stone) would be the next step, followed by a Soft Arkansas for final sharpening. If an extremely refined edge is desired, follow the Soft Arkansas with a Hard Arkansas or 6000-8000 grit Japanese Water Stone. Any ceramic system will work if there is not going to be a lot of material to be removed along the edge (the Sharpmaker by Spyderco is especially good for serrated models). For carbon steels: The same procedure as listed above will work for carbon steels but we have had better results using only the Japanese water stones (Japanese water stones can be found at most woodworking supply stores and catalogs). We suggest beginning with an 800 or 1000 grit water stone and progressing through a 1200-1400 grit and finishing with a 6000-8000 grit stone. Rolled edges: A rolled edge can be sharpened to its original configuration by using a slack belt on a belt sander (320-400 grit belt) to get a consistent burr and then polishing the burr off with a buffer or leather strop. One can also simply redefine the edge by establishing a cantle on it as outlined above. SDK Maintenance Programmer
Aleksandar wrote: SDK Maintenance Programmer That explains your knowledge about swords :laugh:
Off to in ~39 days