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  3. I have an very old HP computer that can not power up now

I have an very old HP computer that can not power up now

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  • N Nelek

    Peter_in_2780 wrote:

    If the machine is that old, it may very well have PATA/IDE disks, not SATA.

    I still have a working USB 1.0 case from 2004 / 2005. The 32 GB HDD inside (an old seagate) is still working :)

    M.D.V. ;) If something has a solution... Why do we have to worry about?. If it has no solution... For what reason do we have to worry about? Help me to understand what I'm saying, and I'll explain it better to you Rating helpful answers is nice, but saying thanks can be even nicer.

    P Offline
    P Offline
    Peter_in_2780
    wrote on last edited by
    #24

    I still have my old Dell Pentium-something tower that came with Windows ME (ptui ptui ptui). Late 2000. Installing XP when it appeared the next year was a lifesaver. Under a hundred gigs of 5.25 HDD, 3.5 and 5.25 floppies, CD... I think I stretched the RAM to 256MB. I upgraded the dialup modem to 56kbps. Ah, the good old days....

    Software rusts. Simon Stephenson, ca 1994. So does this signature. me, 2012

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    • S Southmountain

      this desktop was working in year 2001, but could not power up in 2002. Now I get some time to work on this PC and back up some personal data from it. any idea for not powering up? CMOS battery failed?

      diligent hands rule....

      J Offline
      J Offline
      jeanphi06
      wrote on last edited by
      #25

      I don't know if it related to your issue. But i had an HP Pavillion Laptop from 2005 who started to have strange behavior . He started to not power on everytime , sometimes it powered up , then the last day not , i had to wait few days and it powered up. The delay between the time i was able to power it increased with time until the moment it never power up again. I thought it was a problem with my power button. I bring the laptop to repair . And the guy check and say me nothing seemed to be wrong with power supply or button. But he just clear a persistant ram and the PC worked again. I got back the PC and it worked normally for 2 weeks.. and then started to have the same problem... And at that moment , i just thought about planned obsolescence. what i did , when i was able to start the PC , i went directly in the BIOS and changed the date . I went 10 years back. We were in 2016 , i set the date backto 2006. And after that , the PC worked again normally. The problem never occurs again. the PC worked till 2019 where it died but due to the graphic card.

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      • S Southmountain

        this desktop was working in year 2001, but could not power up in 2002. Now I get some time to work on this PC and back up some personal data from it. any idea for not powering up? CMOS battery failed?

        diligent hands rule....

        R Offline
        R Offline
        Rage
        wrote on last edited by
        #26

        Southmountain wrote:

        2002. Now I get some time to work on this PC

        :omg: :wtf: that's ... 20 years ago.

        Do not escape reality : improve reality !

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        • S Southmountain

          this desktop was working in year 2001, but could not power up in 2002. Now I get some time to work on this PC and back up some personal data from it. any idea for not powering up? CMOS battery failed?

          diligent hands rule....

          R Offline
          R Offline
          rjmoses
          wrote on last edited by
          #27

          Odds are it is the power supply. Back around that time, there was a company out of Taiwan that made the majority of the capacitors used in PC equipment (I can't remember the name off hand). These capacitors had a life expectancy of about 5 years before they would swell and blow the top into a dome-like shape. Viewsonic was one of the companies that got nailed by this problem and actually sold a repair kit to replace the capacitors in many of their displays. You might "borrow" a power supply from some other piece of equipment and see if that makes a difference.

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          • OriginalGriffO OriginalGriff

            First premise then is dead PSU or blown fuse. If you have a multimeter, I'd start by disconnecting all the PSU cables and checking the 5V and 12V rails. Nothing there means the PSU is dead or the plug fuse (if fitted, they are in the UK) is blown. If that shows good values, then the motherboard is fried and I'd try a USB IDE/PATA/SATA/ disk reader to see if it's still alive - I'd not connect it directly to any computer I actually liked, which is why I have one of those readers ... they are pretty cheap from Fleabay / Hamazon.

            "I have no idea what I did, but I'm taking full credit for it." - ThisOldTony "Common sense is so rare these days, it should be classified as a super power" - Random T-shirt AntiTwitter: @DalekDave is now a follower!

            L Offline
            L Offline
            LucidDev
            wrote on last edited by
            #28

            Back in the dark ages, IBM came out to do a new computer installation for us at the college. They simply could not get the disk drives to power up. After a few minutes, I asked them, "Are they plugged in?" The two CEs looked at each other and then started popping up the floor tiles. They were surprised to see that they had failed to plug the drives in! Moral: Check the obvious things first: AC power, cord, fuse, power supply...etc.

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            • R rjmoses

              Odds are it is the power supply. Back around that time, there was a company out of Taiwan that made the majority of the capacitors used in PC equipment (I can't remember the name off hand). These capacitors had a life expectancy of about 5 years before they would swell and blow the top into a dome-like shape. Viewsonic was one of the companies that got nailed by this problem and actually sold a repair kit to replace the capacitors in many of their displays. You might "borrow" a power supply from some other piece of equipment and see if that makes a difference.

              L Offline
              L Offline
              LucidDev
              wrote on last edited by
              #29

              In addition to the PSU, there are capacitors on the mother board that go bad. The ones you want to look at are clustered around the PSU plug. They are typically about 10,000 mfd. If the top of the capacitor cases are rounded, that means they need to be replaced. I've had to replace them in several P4 computers. It didn't fix the problem in the last computer I tried to fix, so months later when I was planning on scrapping the computer, I powered it up for a last test. It has been running perfectly since! Don't use the computer for much as it has Windows 2000 Server installed, but I was able to back up the [probably useless] data.

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              • S Southmountain

                this desktop was working in year 2001, but could not power up in 2002. Now I get some time to work on this PC and back up some personal data from it. any idea for not powering up? CMOS battery failed?

                diligent hands rule....

                S Offline
                S Offline
                sasadler
                wrote on last edited by
                #30

                Electrolytic capacitors have a finite lifespan so the first thing I'd check is the power supply.

                1 Reply Last reply
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                • S Southmountain

                  this desktop was working in year 2001, but could not power up in 2002. Now I get some time to work on this PC and back up some personal data from it. any idea for not powering up? CMOS battery failed?

                  diligent hands rule....

                  J Offline
                  J Offline
                  jlongo
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #31

                  https://assets.amuniversal.com/ab0377f0470f01301099001dd8b71c47[^]

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                  • S Southmountain

                    I moved from east coast to west coast....

                    diligent hands rule....

                    E Offline
                    E Offline
                    ElectronProgrammer
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #32

                    Since you moved I would start by suggesting to disassemble/disconnect everything (PSU,RAM,CPU, CMOS battery, and any IDE/SATA/sound/CD-ROM/etc cables), maybe take the chance to clean everything, and reassemble again. It is most likely that something came loose. Even if you haven't moved the PC, I would still do it because things might still be loose. On old computers the tolerances for the parts were not as good as today and the attachments were not as secure so, even the vibration of the fans and hard drives spinning might loosen components, specially on weaker cases. If that does not work, disassemble again and test mounting things one at a time (or use the first disassembly to do that). Below is a small list of steps. But first some general advice: Read all the steps before starting to make sure you understand what is going to happen. Never forget to power off between each of the following steps. After step 3 reset your BIOS after each step (some motherboards only re-detect fundamental hardware if you reset the BIOS). On success move to the next step. On failure you probably found the culprit. 1- Start by testing the PSU while disconnected from any device (you can find tutorials online for ATX PSUs. For AT PSUs just press the power button). If the fan spins, it is probably Ok. This test might not work for more modern zero RPM PSUs but your system is too old for that. 2- Connect the PSU to the motherboard without having anything else attached (no CPU/RAM/CMOS battery/etc) except the buzzer and power button (if it is an ATX PSU). Some motherboards will beep if they cannot detect the CPU. That will tell you that your motherboard BIOS is probably Ok. Either way move on to the next step. 3- Connect the CPU and its cooler (you do not want to burn your possibly good CPU) and power on. The motherboard will complain/beep about missing RAM. 4- Insert only one memory module. Check the manual of the board on which slot that has to be or recursively try one at a time. If it does not work with one try another module if you have one. The first module you used might be bad. On success the motherboard will complain about the graphics card (if it is not onboard). If the graphics card is onboard go to the next step. 5- Insert a graphics card. If the motherboard complains about the graphics card, try another. If the graphics card is onboard, disable it if possible (some motherboards have a jumper to enable/disable onboard graphics) and insert a dedicated graphics card. On success the PC will PO

                    A 1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • E ElectronProgrammer

                      Since you moved I would start by suggesting to disassemble/disconnect everything (PSU,RAM,CPU, CMOS battery, and any IDE/SATA/sound/CD-ROM/etc cables), maybe take the chance to clean everything, and reassemble again. It is most likely that something came loose. Even if you haven't moved the PC, I would still do it because things might still be loose. On old computers the tolerances for the parts were not as good as today and the attachments were not as secure so, even the vibration of the fans and hard drives spinning might loosen components, specially on weaker cases. If that does not work, disassemble again and test mounting things one at a time (or use the first disassembly to do that). Below is a small list of steps. But first some general advice: Read all the steps before starting to make sure you understand what is going to happen. Never forget to power off between each of the following steps. After step 3 reset your BIOS after each step (some motherboards only re-detect fundamental hardware if you reset the BIOS). On success move to the next step. On failure you probably found the culprit. 1- Start by testing the PSU while disconnected from any device (you can find tutorials online for ATX PSUs. For AT PSUs just press the power button). If the fan spins, it is probably Ok. This test might not work for more modern zero RPM PSUs but your system is too old for that. 2- Connect the PSU to the motherboard without having anything else attached (no CPU/RAM/CMOS battery/etc) except the buzzer and power button (if it is an ATX PSU). Some motherboards will beep if they cannot detect the CPU. That will tell you that your motherboard BIOS is probably Ok. Either way move on to the next step. 3- Connect the CPU and its cooler (you do not want to burn your possibly good CPU) and power on. The motherboard will complain/beep about missing RAM. 4- Insert only one memory module. Check the manual of the board on which slot that has to be or recursively try one at a time. If it does not work with one try another module if you have one. The first module you used might be bad. On success the motherboard will complain about the graphics card (if it is not onboard). If the graphics card is onboard go to the next step. 5- Insert a graphics card. If the motherboard complains about the graphics card, try another. If the graphics card is onboard, disable it if possible (some motherboards have a jumper to enable/disable onboard graphics) and insert a dedicated graphics card. On success the PC will PO

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                      A Offline
                      AAC Tech
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #33

                      This is the best answer. Incidently, I have a 2006 HP/Compaq Pavilion SR1820NX running Windows 7 Pro/XP Pro for old hardware.

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