And Now For Something Completely Different...
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_Damian S_ wrote:
can you not take it to a specialist tank place and get it tested?
It would probably cost less to buy a new system. But don't underestimate a leather apron - they're damned tough, and about a quarter inch thick. I'm really just scared I might pee my pants when it goes "Bang!" Embarrassing...
"A Journey of a Thousand Rest Stops Begins with a Single Movement"
With all that water nobody would know.
You really gotta try harder to keep up with everyone that's not on the short bus with you. - John Simmons / outlaw programmer.
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I know I've used that tagline before, but it applies to so many things I post here... I was given a reverse osmosis water system this weekend. It's been used, but it washes up nicely. The problem is the holding tank. The bottom is quite rusty, and I can't tell if it's because of a leak in the tank, or a leak elsewhere that caused the tank to sit in a pool of water for an extended time. It has a Schraeder valve on the outlet, just like a bicycle tire, so after I knocked off the worst of the rust on the bottom I charged it with 40 psi of air. I'll check tomorrow to see if it holds pressure, and that should tell me if it's got a pinhole leak. But the tank is rated for 100 psi, and I'm nervous about applying that much pressure. I've never done any tank testing, so I have no idea what to expect. If the pressure holds, I'd like to take it up to about 120 psi to see how it behaves. I'm wearing a leather welding apron, heavy gloves, and safety glasses, but I don't know how tanks fail. Do they explode into many fragments, or just split at the seams and fizzle? And given the rust, I know that the bottom is thinner than it's supposed to be. I have a bunch of fiberglass mat and resin left over from the boat project; would it be a good idea to mat the bottom of the tank to reinforce it? And what about gelcoating? On a boat you use gelcoat on top of the fiberglass because gelcoat is waterproof and fiberglass is not. In this case, should I gelcoat first - to keep the water in - and fiberglass over the top? It's a quandry, and I have no idea why anyone would ask a bunch of programmers such a question. But you're such a diverse lot, with so many outside interests - someone is bound to have done this before...
"A Journey of a Thousand Rest Stops Begins with a Single Movement"
The best advice you have gotten so far is from Norman. Pressure testing with air (or any gas) is. a. bad. idea.
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Could you test it this weekend or next week? The fam and I will be on Cape Cod and out of harm's way.
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Roger Wright wrote:
I might pee my pants
If a metal pressurised tank explodes with you next to it, you won't need to worry about pee in your pants. Here[^] Adctually I think that was an o2 tank - and I remember that Mythbusters did a scuba tank in the Jaws episode - and they are at thousands of psi - so you are probably OK - especially if rusted as it would have a weak point that is likely to fail early on in a known direction - I assume you are holding it down pretty tightly!
___________________________________________ .\\axxx (That's an 'M')
Generally a scuba cylinder holds between 200 bar (2900 psi) and 232 bar (3400 psi), I've seen photos of failed Hydrostatic tests and the cylinder looks like is just so much ripped up paper, but then again when they do a H-Test its tends to be around 348bar (5000psi). I've also seen photos of the wreck a aluminium cylinder made of a car when the bottom failed and sent the remainder of the cylinder though it like a torpedo. Generally 120psi isn't gonna do that much, and will most like fail at the seams, or at some likely weak spot...
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Roger Wright wrote:
I might pee my pants
If a metal pressurised tank explodes with you next to it, you won't need to worry about pee in your pants. Here[^] Adctually I think that was an o2 tank - and I remember that Mythbusters did a scuba tank in the Jaws episode - and they are at thousands of psi - so you are probably OK - especially if rusted as it would have a weak point that is likely to fail early on in a known direction - I assume you are holding it down pretty tightly!
___________________________________________ .\\axxx (That's an 'M')
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I know I've used that tagline before, but it applies to so many things I post here... I was given a reverse osmosis water system this weekend. It's been used, but it washes up nicely. The problem is the holding tank. The bottom is quite rusty, and I can't tell if it's because of a leak in the tank, or a leak elsewhere that caused the tank to sit in a pool of water for an extended time. It has a Schraeder valve on the outlet, just like a bicycle tire, so after I knocked off the worst of the rust on the bottom I charged it with 40 psi of air. I'll check tomorrow to see if it holds pressure, and that should tell me if it's got a pinhole leak. But the tank is rated for 100 psi, and I'm nervous about applying that much pressure. I've never done any tank testing, so I have no idea what to expect. If the pressure holds, I'd like to take it up to about 120 psi to see how it behaves. I'm wearing a leather welding apron, heavy gloves, and safety glasses, but I don't know how tanks fail. Do they explode into many fragments, or just split at the seams and fizzle? And given the rust, I know that the bottom is thinner than it's supposed to be. I have a bunch of fiberglass mat and resin left over from the boat project; would it be a good idea to mat the bottom of the tank to reinforce it? And what about gelcoating? On a boat you use gelcoat on top of the fiberglass because gelcoat is waterproof and fiberglass is not. In this case, should I gelcoat first - to keep the water in - and fiberglass over the top? It's a quandry, and I have no idea why anyone would ask a bunch of programmers such a question. But you're such a diverse lot, with so many outside interests - someone is bound to have done this before...
"A Journey of a Thousand Rest Stops Begins with a Single Movement"
We had a reverse osmosis system in our house and in the middle ofthe night, a hose burst and flooded the house with 3 inches of water. It took a long time to recover from that.
"Why don't you tie a kerosene-soaked rag around your ankles so the ants won't climb up and eat your candy ass..." - Dale Earnhardt, 1997
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"...the staggering layers of obscenity in your statement make it a work of art on so many levels." - Jason Jystad, 10/26/2001 -
I know I've used that tagline before, but it applies to so many things I post here... I was given a reverse osmosis water system this weekend. It's been used, but it washes up nicely. The problem is the holding tank. The bottom is quite rusty, and I can't tell if it's because of a leak in the tank, or a leak elsewhere that caused the tank to sit in a pool of water for an extended time. It has a Schraeder valve on the outlet, just like a bicycle tire, so after I knocked off the worst of the rust on the bottom I charged it with 40 psi of air. I'll check tomorrow to see if it holds pressure, and that should tell me if it's got a pinhole leak. But the tank is rated for 100 psi, and I'm nervous about applying that much pressure. I've never done any tank testing, so I have no idea what to expect. If the pressure holds, I'd like to take it up to about 120 psi to see how it behaves. I'm wearing a leather welding apron, heavy gloves, and safety glasses, but I don't know how tanks fail. Do they explode into many fragments, or just split at the seams and fizzle? And given the rust, I know that the bottom is thinner than it's supposed to be. I have a bunch of fiberglass mat and resin left over from the boat project; would it be a good idea to mat the bottom of the tank to reinforce it? And what about gelcoating? On a boat you use gelcoat on top of the fiberglass because gelcoat is waterproof and fiberglass is not. In this case, should I gelcoat first - to keep the water in - and fiberglass over the top? It's a quandry, and I have no idea why anyone would ask a bunch of programmers such a question. But you're such a diverse lot, with so many outside interests - someone is bound to have done this before...
"A Journey of a Thousand Rest Stops Begins with a Single Movement"
Roger Wright wrote:
I'm wearing a leather welding apron, heavy gloves, and safety glasses
I'm almost certainly too late, curse this rotating planet thingy, but if you have some sort of athletic cup, it wouldn't do any harm to wear that as well. :) :)
Henry Minute Do not read medical books! You could die of a misprint. - Mark Twain Girl: (staring) "Why do you need an icy cucumber?" “I want to report a fraud. The government is lying to us all.”
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I know I've used that tagline before, but it applies to so many things I post here... I was given a reverse osmosis water system this weekend. It's been used, but it washes up nicely. The problem is the holding tank. The bottom is quite rusty, and I can't tell if it's because of a leak in the tank, or a leak elsewhere that caused the tank to sit in a pool of water for an extended time. It has a Schraeder valve on the outlet, just like a bicycle tire, so after I knocked off the worst of the rust on the bottom I charged it with 40 psi of air. I'll check tomorrow to see if it holds pressure, and that should tell me if it's got a pinhole leak. But the tank is rated for 100 psi, and I'm nervous about applying that much pressure. I've never done any tank testing, so I have no idea what to expect. If the pressure holds, I'd like to take it up to about 120 psi to see how it behaves. I'm wearing a leather welding apron, heavy gloves, and safety glasses, but I don't know how tanks fail. Do they explode into many fragments, or just split at the seams and fizzle? And given the rust, I know that the bottom is thinner than it's supposed to be. I have a bunch of fiberglass mat and resin left over from the boat project; would it be a good idea to mat the bottom of the tank to reinforce it? And what about gelcoating? On a boat you use gelcoat on top of the fiberglass because gelcoat is waterproof and fiberglass is not. In this case, should I gelcoat first - to keep the water in - and fiberglass over the top? It's a quandry, and I have no idea why anyone would ask a bunch of programmers such a question. But you're such a diverse lot, with so many outside interests - someone is bound to have done this before...
"A Journey of a Thousand Rest Stops Begins with a Single Movement"
When I was working in China, it was for a high pressure pipe manufacturer and we did lots of testing on a similar line. Pipe sections were placed in water filled tank, clamped shut from one end and the other end had oil pumped into it under pressure, pressure was applied until either the pipe burst (burst test) or a certain pressure is reached an maintained for x hours (stress test). In some cases, there was a rupture in the pipe and that was nothing more than crack and there was the under water equivalent of a fizzle. Nothing more. I don't know why they always tested these things underwater, but them were the regulations from the research company in Calgary, Canada. My reasoning is just in case there was something minuscule in there, it would shoot out and such a projectile pushed out by relatively high pressures (between 100-300 bar) could cause damage and or bodily harm. Theoretically speaking, if the chances of something shooting out are next to nothing, then pressure will try to equalize at the moment a crack or fissure is made and that's that. It might whistle very loud :)
If the post was helpful, please vote! Current activities: Book: Devils by Fyodor Dostoyevsky Project: Hospital Automation, final stage Learning: Image analysis, LINQ Now and forever, defiant to the end. What is Multiple Sclerosis[^]?
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I know I've used that tagline before, but it applies to so many things I post here... I was given a reverse osmosis water system this weekend. It's been used, but it washes up nicely. The problem is the holding tank. The bottom is quite rusty, and I can't tell if it's because of a leak in the tank, or a leak elsewhere that caused the tank to sit in a pool of water for an extended time. It has a Schraeder valve on the outlet, just like a bicycle tire, so after I knocked off the worst of the rust on the bottom I charged it with 40 psi of air. I'll check tomorrow to see if it holds pressure, and that should tell me if it's got a pinhole leak. But the tank is rated for 100 psi, and I'm nervous about applying that much pressure. I've never done any tank testing, so I have no idea what to expect. If the pressure holds, I'd like to take it up to about 120 psi to see how it behaves. I'm wearing a leather welding apron, heavy gloves, and safety glasses, but I don't know how tanks fail. Do they explode into many fragments, or just split at the seams and fizzle? And given the rust, I know that the bottom is thinner than it's supposed to be. I have a bunch of fiberglass mat and resin left over from the boat project; would it be a good idea to mat the bottom of the tank to reinforce it? And what about gelcoating? On a boat you use gelcoat on top of the fiberglass because gelcoat is waterproof and fiberglass is not. In this case, should I gelcoat first - to keep the water in - and fiberglass over the top? It's a quandry, and I have no idea why anyone would ask a bunch of programmers such a question. But you're such a diverse lot, with so many outside interests - someone is bound to have done this before...
"A Journey of a Thousand Rest Stops Begins with a Single Movement"
120psi in 100psi tank??? Ah, I'm not totally familiar with air tank technology, but what I do know is that unless you're trained and have the proper equipment...DON'T DO IT...8-) It could rupter at a seem and not do much damage or major damage...it could shatter (because it's rusted, there could be many weak spots) and do major damage...or it could blow the valve off, in which case you've just created the lastest Lunar Landing rocket... Get a professional would be my advice...
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I know I've used that tagline before, but it applies to so many things I post here... I was given a reverse osmosis water system this weekend. It's been used, but it washes up nicely. The problem is the holding tank. The bottom is quite rusty, and I can't tell if it's because of a leak in the tank, or a leak elsewhere that caused the tank to sit in a pool of water for an extended time. It has a Schraeder valve on the outlet, just like a bicycle tire, so after I knocked off the worst of the rust on the bottom I charged it with 40 psi of air. I'll check tomorrow to see if it holds pressure, and that should tell me if it's got a pinhole leak. But the tank is rated for 100 psi, and I'm nervous about applying that much pressure. I've never done any tank testing, so I have no idea what to expect. If the pressure holds, I'd like to take it up to about 120 psi to see how it behaves. I'm wearing a leather welding apron, heavy gloves, and safety glasses, but I don't know how tanks fail. Do they explode into many fragments, or just split at the seams and fizzle? And given the rust, I know that the bottom is thinner than it's supposed to be. I have a bunch of fiberglass mat and resin left over from the boat project; would it be a good idea to mat the bottom of the tank to reinforce it? And what about gelcoating? On a boat you use gelcoat on top of the fiberglass because gelcoat is waterproof and fiberglass is not. In this case, should I gelcoat first - to keep the water in - and fiberglass over the top? It's a quandry, and I have no idea why anyone would ask a bunch of programmers such a question. But you're such a diverse lot, with so many outside interests - someone is bound to have done this before...
"A Journey of a Thousand Rest Stops Begins with a Single Movement"
I have got a better idea, call the support guys. In software, we get so many pathetic and lame support issues, so now you are on the asking side go for it (assuming you have had support issues for the software you developed). Relax and enjoy being on the other side of the support. :-\
