If it's broke... continued .. air conditioning hoses for ancient cars.
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I'm finding it impossible to find replacement AC hoses for my old car/truck/van. The old vehicles are freon based and apparently hose parts for the old systems are near impossible to get. I have no options, other than to seek out a machinist to make the parts. Any suggestions? And no I don't want to buy a new car.
"Sanity is not statistical." - Eric Blair, 1984, Chapter 9
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I'm finding it impossible to find replacement AC hoses for my old car/truck/van. The old vehicles are freon based and apparently hose parts for the old systems are near impossible to get. I have no options, other than to seek out a machinist to make the parts. Any suggestions? And no I don't want to buy a new car.
"Sanity is not statistical." - Eric Blair, 1984, Chapter 9
Junkyard?
The difficult we do right away... ...the impossible takes slightly longer.
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I'm finding it impossible to find replacement AC hoses for my old car/truck/van. The old vehicles are freon based and apparently hose parts for the old systems are near impossible to get. I have no options, other than to seek out a machinist to make the parts. Any suggestions? And no I don't want to buy a new car.
"Sanity is not statistical." - Eric Blair, 1984, Chapter 9
You should be able to get your A/C converted. I had the A/C on my (now) 22 year BMW converted when it was 13 years old (in 2004). /ravi
My new year resolution: 2048 x 1536 Home | Articles | My .NET bits | Freeware ravib(at)ravib(dot)com
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Junkyard?
The difficult we do right away... ...the impossible takes slightly longer.
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You should be able to get your A/C converted. I had the A/C on my (now) 22 year BMW converted when it was 13 years old (in 2004). /ravi
My new year resolution: 2048 x 1536 Home | Articles | My .NET bits | Freeware ravib(at)ravib(dot)com
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If you don't mind me asking what was the cost, and did the after market AC work OK?
"Sanity is not statistical." - Eric Blair, 1984, Chapter 9
The last time I had an R-12 type a/c unit on a car, I changed it myself. If your hoses are bad, you probably don't have to worry about venting R-12 to atmosphere - it's already done that. You can buy aftermarket hoses to replace the ones you need, or fabricate your own from kits made for that purpose. Next you'll need to disassemble everything and thoroughly flush the system. This is critical, as the ester-based oil used in R-12 systems isn't compatible with the modern R-134a refrigerant. At all of the joints - condenser, evaporator, compressor, accumulator/dryer, etc - replace the o-rings. The old ones were black; the new are light green in color, generally. On the high and low pressure ports, install conversion connectors from the auto parts store - these adapt the R-12 fittings to match gauge sets and tools made for the modern refrigerant. Before assembling all the parts, consult a manual for your particular car and pre-charge the system with PAG oil, distributing some into each component until you have the specified amount of oil. My last project (a Buick) called for 2 oz in each of the parts - compressor, accumulator, condenser and evaporator - for a total of 8 oz. Re-assemble everything and put a hard vacuum on the system to remove all the water vapor. Keep the vacuum on for at least 45 minutes to boil off any moisture, then shut it off and let it sit for a bit, watching the vacuum gauge to check for leaks. If all goes well, you can then charge the system with R-134a. This is done through a gauge set, and if you're smart, make sure you buy one that allows you to read vacuum for the previous part of the process. Again consult the manual for your car, and use only as much R-134a as specified for that model. I know professionals use the gauge pressures to judge how much to put in, but we amateurs don't have that skill. Buy just as many cans as you need, and maybe one extra. The instructions are on the cans, but you might want to buy a Chilton manual or something similar to read and understand the process. As to cost: The vacuum pump is the most expensive tool - $300 and up, easily. But since you can also use it (with appropriate adaptors) to explode kittens, it's probably a good investment, just for the entertainment. Gauges will set you back $50 or so, and you'll spend about the same on R-134a and oil. The most cost effective way to buy the freon is in bulk, of course, but then you need a scale to measure how much you use, and that's an extra expense. The little cans are pricey, but less hassle. You'll a
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If you don't mind me asking what was the cost, and did the after market AC work OK?
"Sanity is not statistical." - Eric Blair, 1984, Chapter 9
I think it cost me about $600. The AC worked flawlessly until this year, when a leak was discovered in the compressor. With parts and labor, I'm looking at about $1500 today, so I think I'm going to have to live with a non-AC'd car from now. It's not so bad, since Toronto is hot for only 2-3 months of the year. And I have a second (newer) car with an ice-cold AC. In case you're interested, this[^] is what my car looks like. A couple of years back I foolishly contemplated selling her. /ravi
My new year resolution: 2048 x 1536 Home | Articles | My .NET bits | Freeware ravib(at)ravib(dot)com
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I think it cost me about $600. The AC worked flawlessly until this year, when a leak was discovered in the compressor. With parts and labor, I'm looking at about $1500 today, so I think I'm going to have to live with a non-AC'd car from now. It's not so bad, since Toronto is hot for only 2-3 months of the year. And I have a second (newer) car with an ice-cold AC. In case you're interested, this[^] is what my car looks like. A couple of years back I foolishly contemplated selling her. /ravi
My new year resolution: 2048 x 1536 Home | Articles | My .NET bits | Freeware ravib(at)ravib(dot)com
Ravi Bhavnani wrote:
Toronto is hot thaws for only 2-3 months of the year.
FTFY ;P And Ravi, you should be able to replace the compressor yourself and recharge the thing for about $400. Come on down to Bullhead City next August and you can use my tools. :-D
Will Rogers never met me.
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The last time I had an R-12 type a/c unit on a car, I changed it myself. If your hoses are bad, you probably don't have to worry about venting R-12 to atmosphere - it's already done that. You can buy aftermarket hoses to replace the ones you need, or fabricate your own from kits made for that purpose. Next you'll need to disassemble everything and thoroughly flush the system. This is critical, as the ester-based oil used in R-12 systems isn't compatible with the modern R-134a refrigerant. At all of the joints - condenser, evaporator, compressor, accumulator/dryer, etc - replace the o-rings. The old ones were black; the new are light green in color, generally. On the high and low pressure ports, install conversion connectors from the auto parts store - these adapt the R-12 fittings to match gauge sets and tools made for the modern refrigerant. Before assembling all the parts, consult a manual for your particular car and pre-charge the system with PAG oil, distributing some into each component until you have the specified amount of oil. My last project (a Buick) called for 2 oz in each of the parts - compressor, accumulator, condenser and evaporator - for a total of 8 oz. Re-assemble everything and put a hard vacuum on the system to remove all the water vapor. Keep the vacuum on for at least 45 minutes to boil off any moisture, then shut it off and let it sit for a bit, watching the vacuum gauge to check for leaks. If all goes well, you can then charge the system with R-134a. This is done through a gauge set, and if you're smart, make sure you buy one that allows you to read vacuum for the previous part of the process. Again consult the manual for your car, and use only as much R-134a as specified for that model. I know professionals use the gauge pressures to judge how much to put in, but we amateurs don't have that skill. Buy just as many cans as you need, and maybe one extra. The instructions are on the cans, but you might want to buy a Chilton manual or something similar to read and understand the process. As to cost: The vacuum pump is the most expensive tool - $300 and up, easily. But since you can also use it (with appropriate adaptors) to explode kittens, it's probably a good investment, just for the entertainment. Gauges will set you back $50 or so, and you'll spend about the same on R-134a and oil. The most cost effective way to buy the freon is in bulk, of course, but then you need a scale to measure how much you use, and that's an extra expense. The little cans are pricey, but less hassle. You'll a
:-) I was going to say 'I hope Roger's reading the forums, he'll have undoubtledy done this and offer words of wisdom' and lo and behold, there you were :-)
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Ravi Bhavnani wrote:
Toronto is hot thaws for only 2-3 months of the year.
FTFY ;P And Ravi, you should be able to replace the compressor yourself and recharge the thing for about $400. Come on down to Bullhead City next August and you can use my tools. :-D
Will Rogers never met me.
I think you're right about Toronto's weather! That's a very generous offer - but I wouldn't know what to do with your tools! Now if you were willing to throw in automotive repair lessons, I'd seriously consider a trip to BC! :-D /ravi
My new year resolution: 2048 x 1536 Home | Articles | My .NET bits | Freeware ravib(at)ravib(dot)com
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:-) I was going to say 'I hope Roger's reading the forums, he'll have undoubtledy done this and offer words of wisdom' and lo and behold, there you were :-)
:thumbsup: /ravi
My new year resolution: 2048 x 1536 Home | Articles | My .NET bits | Freeware ravib(at)ravib(dot)com
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I think you're right about Toronto's weather! That's a very generous offer - but I wouldn't know what to do with your tools! Now if you were willing to throw in automotive repair lessons, I'd seriously consider a trip to BC! :-D /ravi
My new year resolution: 2048 x 1536 Home | Articles | My .NET bits | Freeware ravib(at)ravib(dot)com
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:-) I was going to say 'I hope Roger's reading the forums, he'll have undoubtledy done this and offer words of wisdom' and lo and behold, there you were :-)
Garth J Lancaster wrote:
and offer words of wisdom'
Roger Wright wrote:
But since you can also use it (with appropriate adaptors) to explode kittens, it's probably a good investment, just for the entertainment.
Yep.
It was broke, so I fixed it.
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I'm finding it impossible to find replacement AC hoses for my old car/truck/van. The old vehicles are freon based and apparently hose parts for the old systems are near impossible to get. I have no options, other than to seek out a machinist to make the parts. Any suggestions? And no I don't want to buy a new car.
"Sanity is not statistical." - Eric Blair, 1984, Chapter 9
-
I'm finding it impossible to find replacement AC hoses for my old car/truck/van. The old vehicles are freon based and apparently hose parts for the old systems are near impossible to get. I have no options, other than to seek out a machinist to make the parts. Any suggestions? And no I don't want to buy a new car.
"Sanity is not statistical." - Eric Blair, 1984, Chapter 9
cheers, Chris Maunder The Code Project | Co-founder Microsoft C++ MVP
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You should be able to get your A/C converted. I had the A/C on my (now) 22 year BMW converted when it was 13 years old (in 2004). /ravi
My new year resolution: 2048 x 1536 Home | Articles | My .NET bits | Freeware ravib(at)ravib(dot)com
Ravi Bhavnani wrote:
my (now) 22 year BMW
I reckon you were trying to pass it off as a decent car available for sale some time ago. I take it that there were no buyers? :laugh:
"Real men drive manual transmission" - Rajesh.
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I think you're right about Toronto's weather! That's a very generous offer - but I wouldn't know what to do with your tools! Now if you were willing to throw in automotive repair lessons, I'd seriously consider a trip to BC! :-D /ravi
My new year resolution: 2048 x 1536 Home | Articles | My .NET bits | Freeware ravib(at)ravib(dot)com
I can certainly guide you through the process, and I'll be happy to do so, after it cools off some... Below 100°F at noon would be a good indicator. :)
Will Rogers never met me.
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The last time I had an R-12 type a/c unit on a car, I changed it myself. If your hoses are bad, you probably don't have to worry about venting R-12 to atmosphere - it's already done that. You can buy aftermarket hoses to replace the ones you need, or fabricate your own from kits made for that purpose. Next you'll need to disassemble everything and thoroughly flush the system. This is critical, as the ester-based oil used in R-12 systems isn't compatible with the modern R-134a refrigerant. At all of the joints - condenser, evaporator, compressor, accumulator/dryer, etc - replace the o-rings. The old ones were black; the new are light green in color, generally. On the high and low pressure ports, install conversion connectors from the auto parts store - these adapt the R-12 fittings to match gauge sets and tools made for the modern refrigerant. Before assembling all the parts, consult a manual for your particular car and pre-charge the system with PAG oil, distributing some into each component until you have the specified amount of oil. My last project (a Buick) called for 2 oz in each of the parts - compressor, accumulator, condenser and evaporator - for a total of 8 oz. Re-assemble everything and put a hard vacuum on the system to remove all the water vapor. Keep the vacuum on for at least 45 minutes to boil off any moisture, then shut it off and let it sit for a bit, watching the vacuum gauge to check for leaks. If all goes well, you can then charge the system with R-134a. This is done through a gauge set, and if you're smart, make sure you buy one that allows you to read vacuum for the previous part of the process. Again consult the manual for your car, and use only as much R-134a as specified for that model. I know professionals use the gauge pressures to judge how much to put in, but we amateurs don't have that skill. Buy just as many cans as you need, and maybe one extra. The instructions are on the cans, but you might want to buy a Chilton manual or something similar to read and understand the process. As to cost: The vacuum pump is the most expensive tool - $300 and up, easily. But since you can also use it (with appropriate adaptors) to explode kittens, it's probably a good investment, just for the entertainment. Gauges will set you back $50 or so, and you'll spend about the same on R-134a and oil. The most cost effective way to buy the freon is in bulk, of course, but then you need a scale to measure how much you use, and that's an extra expense. The little cans are pricey, but less hassle. You'll a
Roger Wright wrote:
As to cost: The vacuum pump is the most expensive tool - $300 and up, easily. But since you can also use it (with appropriate adaptors) to explode kittens, it's probably a good investment,
:omg: :wtf: That's just about signature material right there. My +5
"Science adjusts its views based on what's observed. Faith is the denial of observation, so that belief can be preserved." - Tim Minchin
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Problem is 2nd hand hoses tend to be in bad shape. I have registered on a "junk yard network" (6$) for the hoses I'm looking for but no responses yet. Thanks.
"Sanity is not statistical." - Eric Blair, 1984, Chapter 9
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I can certainly guide you through the process, and I'll be happy to do so, after it cools off some... Below 100°F at noon would be a good indicator. :)
Will Rogers never met me.
Roger Wright wrote:
Below 100°F at noon would be a good indicator
Yeah right, Roger: we all know that happens one day of the year in Bullhead, late in January :laugh:.
Software Zen:
delete this;
