My experience installing Windows 10
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I installed 'Destroy Windows 10 Spying[^]' ...it's mostly a bunch of firewall rules and entries in the HOSTS file to redirect telemetry to nowhere...seems to be working, only had it going a couple of days.
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Just had an idea ;P They want some telemetry, why not give them some ? What a bout a flood generator sending random data ;P
Patrice “Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler.” Albert Einstein
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Several users have posted messages here, complaining about Win 10. I was apprehensive at first, and wanted to wait, but then my curiosity got the better of me and I decided to try it. I roughly followed these steps: 1. First I created an image of my systems drive, In case I decided to revert to 8.1. 2. I upgraded my existing installation to 10. This step is essential, because it gives you an activated Win 10 setup. When you later do a clean install from a "OEM" disc, Microsoft will recognize your computer as eligible for 10 and you will have no trouble getting the setup activated. I much prefer a "clean" installation on a blank drive, rather than an "upgraded" setup. 3. Then I downloaded the ISO file to create a Win 10 install disc from Microsoft and burned a DVD to do the installation. 4. Backed up all data on my systems drive. There wasn't much, as I use a second internal drive to store my data. 5. Using an old Active@ disc I bought years ago from LSoft, I deleted all partitions on my systems drive. 6. Created a new recovery partition on the drive. If you don't create this partition, the Windows installer will create it. However, Windows is inclined to make this partition so small that after time, it will not have enough space to create a shadow copy of itself and you will not be able to create a shadow image of your entire systems drive. I make the recovery partition 2 GB, which is plenty. 7. Mark the recovery partition as Active (important). There is no need to assign a drive letter to this partition. 8. Create a second partition, using the entire remainder of the systems drive. Make this partition a Primary partition. Do NOT mark it as active. Assign drive letter C. 9. Using the Microsoft disc, install Windows 10 on the second, large partition. Skip the two steps where it asks you for an activation code. 10. As soon as Windows runs, assuming you have Internet access, the installation should become activated, provided you did not skip step 2. 11. Install all your Apps and updates. I had absolutely zero issues with 10, and I am very pleased with it.
How do we preserve the wisdom men will need, when their violent passions are spent? - The Lost Horizon
I installed it when it launched, and uninstalled the next day. And the popup keeps bugging me to install-install-install Win10. Had a worst experience while using it. :doh:
Cheers KR
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Several users have posted messages here, complaining about Win 10. I was apprehensive at first, and wanted to wait, but then my curiosity got the better of me and I decided to try it. I roughly followed these steps: 1. First I created an image of my systems drive, In case I decided to revert to 8.1. 2. I upgraded my existing installation to 10. This step is essential, because it gives you an activated Win 10 setup. When you later do a clean install from a "OEM" disc, Microsoft will recognize your computer as eligible for 10 and you will have no trouble getting the setup activated. I much prefer a "clean" installation on a blank drive, rather than an "upgraded" setup. 3. Then I downloaded the ISO file to create a Win 10 install disc from Microsoft and burned a DVD to do the installation. 4. Backed up all data on my systems drive. There wasn't much, as I use a second internal drive to store my data. 5. Using an old Active@ disc I bought years ago from LSoft, I deleted all partitions on my systems drive. 6. Created a new recovery partition on the drive. If you don't create this partition, the Windows installer will create it. However, Windows is inclined to make this partition so small that after time, it will not have enough space to create a shadow copy of itself and you will not be able to create a shadow image of your entire systems drive. I make the recovery partition 2 GB, which is plenty. 7. Mark the recovery partition as Active (important). There is no need to assign a drive letter to this partition. 8. Create a second partition, using the entire remainder of the systems drive. Make this partition a Primary partition. Do NOT mark it as active. Assign drive letter C. 9. Using the Microsoft disc, install Windows 10 on the second, large partition. Skip the two steps where it asks you for an activation code. 10. As soon as Windows runs, assuming you have Internet access, the installation should become activated, provided you did not skip step 2. 11. Install all your Apps and updates. I had absolutely zero issues with 10, and I am very pleased with it.
How do we preserve the wisdom men will need, when their violent passions are spent? - The Lost Horizon
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Several users have posted messages here, complaining about Win 10. I was apprehensive at first, and wanted to wait, but then my curiosity got the better of me and I decided to try it. I roughly followed these steps: 1. First I created an image of my systems drive, In case I decided to revert to 8.1. 2. I upgraded my existing installation to 10. This step is essential, because it gives you an activated Win 10 setup. When you later do a clean install from a "OEM" disc, Microsoft will recognize your computer as eligible for 10 and you will have no trouble getting the setup activated. I much prefer a "clean" installation on a blank drive, rather than an "upgraded" setup. 3. Then I downloaded the ISO file to create a Win 10 install disc from Microsoft and burned a DVD to do the installation. 4. Backed up all data on my systems drive. There wasn't much, as I use a second internal drive to store my data. 5. Using an old Active@ disc I bought years ago from LSoft, I deleted all partitions on my systems drive. 6. Created a new recovery partition on the drive. If you don't create this partition, the Windows installer will create it. However, Windows is inclined to make this partition so small that after time, it will not have enough space to create a shadow copy of itself and you will not be able to create a shadow image of your entire systems drive. I make the recovery partition 2 GB, which is plenty. 7. Mark the recovery partition as Active (important). There is no need to assign a drive letter to this partition. 8. Create a second partition, using the entire remainder of the systems drive. Make this partition a Primary partition. Do NOT mark it as active. Assign drive letter C. 9. Using the Microsoft disc, install Windows 10 on the second, large partition. Skip the two steps where it asks you for an activation code. 10. As soon as Windows runs, assuming you have Internet access, the installation should become activated, provided you did not skip step 2. 11. Install all your Apps and updates. I had absolutely zero issues with 10, and I am very pleased with it.
How do we preserve the wisdom men will need, when their violent passions are spent? - The Lost Horizon
How do you create a recovery partition? Is it just a primary partition marked "active"? Send Codez Plz :)
If you have an important point to make, don't try to be subtle or clever. Use a pile driver. Hit the point once. Then come back and hit it again. Then hit it a third time - a tremendous whack. --Winston Churchill
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How do you create a recovery partition? Is it just a primary partition marked "active"? Send Codez Plz :)
If you have an important point to make, don't try to be subtle or clever. Use a pile driver. Hit the point once. Then come back and hit it again. Then hit it a third time - a tremendous whack. --Winston Churchill
Quote:
Send Codez Plz
No codez. I use an application on the LSoft Active@ disc that is designed to manipulate partitions. If you don't have such a disc, you should be able to create partitions with an old XP or Vista disc. After you delete the old partitions, you first create a primary partition of around 2 GB that you mark Active. Then the main partition. There is nothing special about the recovery partition, except that it is Active and has no drive letter.
How do we preserve the wisdom men will need, when their violent passions are spent? - The Lost Horizon
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That's nice. I just tried the upgrade to Windows 10 and cannot, for the life of me, get the keyboard and mouse to work. I've tried everything for about 3 hours now. Next step, reverting the machine back to Win7...
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Dave Kreskowiak -
Quote:
Send Codez Plz
No codez. I use an application on the LSoft Active@ disc that is designed to manipulate partitions. If you don't have such a disc, you should be able to create partitions with an old XP or Vista disc. After you delete the old partitions, you first create a primary partition of around 2 GB that you mark Active. Then the main partition. There is nothing special about the recovery partition, except that it is Active and has no drive letter.
How do we preserve the wisdom men will need, when their violent passions are spent? - The Lost Horizon
OK, thanks.
If you have an important point to make, don't try to be subtle or clever. Use a pile driver. Hit the point once. Then come back and hit it again. Then hit it a third time - a tremendous whack. --Winston Churchill
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That is strange! Is there anything special about your keyboard and mouse?
How do we preserve the wisdom men will need, when their violent passions are spent? - The Lost Horizon
No, but apparently it's a VERY common problem. Now I have to figure out how I'm going to revert the machine without a keyboard to hit Shift-F8 on. The USB hub driver goes dead when Windows never sees that your hitting Shift-F8 to go into the maintenance menu and tell it to revert. :mad: My MoBo doesn't have PS/2 ports, so a USB keyboard is my only option.
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Dave Kreskowiak -
No, but apparently it's a VERY common problem. Now I have to figure out how I'm going to revert the machine without a keyboard to hit Shift-F8 on. The USB hub driver goes dead when Windows never sees that your hitting Shift-F8 to go into the maintenance menu and tell it to revert. :mad: My MoBo doesn't have PS/2 ports, so a USB keyboard is my only option.
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Dave Kreskowiak -
You don't have a Win 7 image and the associated boot disc? If yes, you will have the ability to restore 7 without having to "undo" 10 first.
How do we preserve the wisdom men will need, when their violent passions are spent? - The Lost Horizon
I've got the Win7 boot and I just started the Win10 boot disc. The Win10 boot say when telling it to go back to the previous build, "We ran into a problem and won't be able to take you back to the previous build. Try resetting your current build instead". ELEPHANT!
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Dave Kreskowiak -
I've got the Win7 boot and I just started the Win10 boot disc. The Win10 boot say when telling it to go back to the previous build, "We ran into a problem and won't be able to take you back to the previous build. Try resetting your current build instead". ELEPHANT!
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Dave KreskowiakThe Win 7 boot disc I refer to is not the Windows 7 system install disc, but the bootable media that Windows can create when you make an image of your systems drive. If you don't have such an image, it seems to me you may have to install Windows 7 from scratch?
How do we preserve the wisdom men will need, when their violent passions are spent? - The Lost Horizon
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OK, thanks.
If you have an important point to make, don't try to be subtle or clever. Use a pile driver. Hit the point once. Then come back and hit it again. Then hit it a third time - a tremendous whack. --Winston Churchill
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The Win 7 boot disc I refer to is not the Windows 7 system install disc, but the bootable media that Windows can create when you make an image of your systems drive. If you don't have such an image, it seems to me you may have to install Windows 7 from scratch?
How do we preserve the wisdom men will need, when their violent passions are spent? - The Lost Horizon
Yeah, I've got that disc too. Was trying to give Win10 a chance, but it's not looking good.
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Dave Kreskowiak -
The Win 7 boot disc I refer to is not the Windows 7 system install disc, but the bootable media that Windows can create when you make an image of your systems drive. If you don't have such an image, it seems to me you may have to install Windows 7 from scratch?
How do we preserve the wisdom men will need, when their violent passions are spent? - The Lost Horizon
ELEPHANTING piece of shit! My Win7 recovery disk will not boot. It worked BEFORE I tried to install Win10, now it doesn't. "Non-system disk or disk error". The Win10 tools will not load the drivers I need to get at my backup image. I can't restore the backup at all. Trying to install Windows on the same drive as the f'd up Win10 installation won't work either. It says it has to wipe the drive to do an install. Something I can not afford now that my backup is completely useless. After fiddling around with thing all day, I'm down to installing a new SSD in the machine and trying to install Windows on that. ELEPHANTING can't do that either! Errors out because the old drive is still in the machine and has boot crap on it and Windows doesn't like it! I have to remove the old drive to get Windows to install on the new one ... in theory anyway. Everything I try Windows is shooting down for some reason of another.
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Dave Kreskowiak -
Several users have posted messages here, complaining about Win 10. I was apprehensive at first, and wanted to wait, but then my curiosity got the better of me and I decided to try it. I roughly followed these steps: 1. First I created an image of my systems drive, In case I decided to revert to 8.1. 2. I upgraded my existing installation to 10. This step is essential, because it gives you an activated Win 10 setup. When you later do a clean install from a "OEM" disc, Microsoft will recognize your computer as eligible for 10 and you will have no trouble getting the setup activated. I much prefer a "clean" installation on a blank drive, rather than an "upgraded" setup. 3. Then I downloaded the ISO file to create a Win 10 install disc from Microsoft and burned a DVD to do the installation. 4. Backed up all data on my systems drive. There wasn't much, as I use a second internal drive to store my data. 5. Using an old Active@ disc I bought years ago from LSoft, I deleted all partitions on my systems drive. 6. Created a new recovery partition on the drive. If you don't create this partition, the Windows installer will create it. However, Windows is inclined to make this partition so small that after time, it will not have enough space to create a shadow copy of itself and you will not be able to create a shadow image of your entire systems drive. I make the recovery partition 2 GB, which is plenty. 7. Mark the recovery partition as Active (important). There is no need to assign a drive letter to this partition. 8. Create a second partition, using the entire remainder of the systems drive. Make this partition a Primary partition. Do NOT mark it as active. Assign drive letter C. 9. Using the Microsoft disc, install Windows 10 on the second, large partition. Skip the two steps where it asks you for an activation code. 10. As soon as Windows runs, assuming you have Internet access, the installation should become activated, provided you did not skip step 2. 11. Install all your Apps and updates. I had absolutely zero issues with 10, and I am very pleased with it.
How do we preserve the wisdom men will need, when their violent passions are spent? - The Lost Horizon
Regarding the recovery partition, do you have any hard data on W10 being just as near-sighted as previous editions, or was it just a precaution on your side? I've only upgraded so far, and I am less than happy with the results, even after ignoring the failed 8->8.1 installation attempt that forced me to undo and then redo all over again. Now I'm planning to do a fresh install, and might as well have a look at the partitioning when I'm at it. However, I have Hybrid HD (SSHD) and from what I've heard, Windows installation is particularly picky with those: the standard installation may well be able to pick a good spot for the recovery partition, but I'm not so sure it will accept a partition defined anywhere, manually. This makes me wonder, how does Windows even decide which partition to use for recovery data? Does it simply take the smallest partition available?
GOTOs are a bit like wire coat hangers: they tend to breed in the darkness, such that where there once were few, eventually there are many, and the program's architecture collapses beneath them. (Fran Poretto)
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Several users have posted messages here, complaining about Win 10. I was apprehensive at first, and wanted to wait, but then my curiosity got the better of me and I decided to try it. I roughly followed these steps: 1. First I created an image of my systems drive, In case I decided to revert to 8.1. 2. I upgraded my existing installation to 10. This step is essential, because it gives you an activated Win 10 setup. When you later do a clean install from a "OEM" disc, Microsoft will recognize your computer as eligible for 10 and you will have no trouble getting the setup activated. I much prefer a "clean" installation on a blank drive, rather than an "upgraded" setup. 3. Then I downloaded the ISO file to create a Win 10 install disc from Microsoft and burned a DVD to do the installation. 4. Backed up all data on my systems drive. There wasn't much, as I use a second internal drive to store my data. 5. Using an old Active@ disc I bought years ago from LSoft, I deleted all partitions on my systems drive. 6. Created a new recovery partition on the drive. If you don't create this partition, the Windows installer will create it. However, Windows is inclined to make this partition so small that after time, it will not have enough space to create a shadow copy of itself and you will not be able to create a shadow image of your entire systems drive. I make the recovery partition 2 GB, which is plenty. 7. Mark the recovery partition as Active (important). There is no need to assign a drive letter to this partition. 8. Create a second partition, using the entire remainder of the systems drive. Make this partition a Primary partition. Do NOT mark it as active. Assign drive letter C. 9. Using the Microsoft disc, install Windows 10 on the second, large partition. Skip the two steps where it asks you for an activation code. 10. As soon as Windows runs, assuming you have Internet access, the installation should become activated, provided you did not skip step 2. 11. Install all your Apps and updates. I had absolutely zero issues with 10, and I am very pleased with it.
How do we preserve the wisdom men will need, when their violent passions are spent? - The Lost Horizon
I clicked upgrade, and it upgraded. I lost no apps, nothing. Not being sarcastic or mean, but it was the best experience I ever had with a windows install. (I keep all my data backed up, so I don't ever worry about hardware failures, or data loss). Where there's smoke, there's a Blue Screen of death.
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I'm still at 7 and intend to stay there for some time.
New version: WinHeist Version
You didn't fall from the stupid tree you got dragged through the whole dumbass forest.Here Here. Daughter got a new Tablet with windows 10. After a few days, she has to reboot to get her speed back. It just DRAGS from time to time. I hate the integrated search/web search. Windows 7 got EVERYTHING RIGHT IMO. A small adjustment at first from XP, but better overall. Windows 10 still makes finding my programs harder, and I have to guess at how to do things! Beats windows 8 to death! (BTW, I bought my first Mac after having to work with Windows 8 for the first time!!)
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Here Here. Daughter got a new Tablet with windows 10. After a few days, she has to reboot to get her speed back. It just DRAGS from time to time. I hate the integrated search/web search. Windows 7 got EVERYTHING RIGHT IMO. A small adjustment at first from XP, but better overall. Windows 10 still makes finding my programs harder, and I have to guess at how to do things! Beats windows 8 to death! (BTW, I bought my first Mac after having to work with Windows 8 for the first time!!)
Kirk 10389821 wrote:
Beats windows 8 to death! (BTW, I bought my first Mac after having to work with Windows 8 for the first time!!)
Yes it does beat 8, or I as I fondly refer to it H8 but that's a story for another day. :) I would image a lot of people are bailing on uSoft and if they don't get there elephant together it'll get a lot worse.
New version: WinHeist Version
You didn't fall from the stupid tree you got dragged through the whole dumbass forest. -
ELEPHANTING piece of shit! My Win7 recovery disk will not boot. It worked BEFORE I tried to install Win10, now it doesn't. "Non-system disk or disk error". The Win10 tools will not load the drivers I need to get at my backup image. I can't restore the backup at all. Trying to install Windows on the same drive as the f'd up Win10 installation won't work either. It says it has to wipe the drive to do an install. Something I can not afford now that my backup is completely useless. After fiddling around with thing all day, I'm down to installing a new SSD in the machine and trying to install Windows on that. ELEPHANTING can't do that either! Errors out because the old drive is still in the machine and has boot crap on it and Windows doesn't like it! I have to remove the old drive to get Windows to install on the new one ... in theory anyway. Everything I try Windows is shooting down for some reason of another.
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Dave KreskowiakDave, there's been a development this morning that may affect you: My Win 10 informed me that it needs to "Upgrade" itself. Note: It said 'upgrade' not merely 'update'. The upgrade was massive. It took over an hour on my fast SSD. A big part of it was apparently an extensive new set of drivers. Now I'm thinking: Maybe the initial version of 10 had USB drivers that caused issues with some USB keyboards and mice? Can it be that this issue is fixed in the latest version of 10? I give you this information for what it's worth. Since both versions of 10 work great on my machine, I cannot say for sure whether the latest version is going to help you. By the way: Samsung makes an excellent SSD, but many Amazon customers complain that the Samsung software that accompanies the drive, will offer to upgrade its firmware. However, the upgrade process totally fries the drive. I am very happy with my Samsung, but I totally avoided the software that came with it. You do not need it!
How do we preserve the wisdom men will need, when their violent passions are spent? - The Lost Horizon
