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guitar modding

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  • J Jorgen Andersson

    Peter_in_2780 wrote:

    or antilog, which can be hard to obtain

    Or reverse the wiring

    Wrong is evil and must be defeated. - Jeff Ello

    C Offline
    C Offline
    CodeWraith
    wrote on last edited by
    #6

    Too easy. If it's not extremely hard to get and sinfully expensive, such a implistic solution is no good.

    I have lived with several Zen masters - all of them were cats. His last invention was an evil Lasagna. It didn't kill anyone, and it actually tasted pretty good.

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    • V V 0

      I'm basically putting together a new guitar with an old body. I got a combination of Seymour Duncan Hot Rails and Cool Rails and now I'm figuring out the potentiometers. (1 of them has to be push/pull ;) ). The wiring scheme says 250 Ohm, so I got that (though I don't know what the difference 250 vs 500 actually does), but there is also a difference between a logarithmic ("audio") and a linear potentiometer. I read you should use the logarithmic ones since they don't "cut-off" at the end. Is that both for volume and tone (I need 1 volume and 2 tones) ? Any other advice I should take in account for the potentiometers, eg how do you know what knobs will fit on those meters? Any advice on the switch itself (5 way switch)? thanks :-)

      V.

      M Offline
      M Offline
      Munchies_Matt
      wrote on last edited by
      #7

      You want some Hot Slags humbuckers. :)

      1 Reply Last reply
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      • V V 0

        I'm basically putting together a new guitar with an old body. I got a combination of Seymour Duncan Hot Rails and Cool Rails and now I'm figuring out the potentiometers. (1 of them has to be push/pull ;) ). The wiring scheme says 250 Ohm, so I got that (though I don't know what the difference 250 vs 500 actually does), but there is also a difference between a logarithmic ("audio") and a linear potentiometer. I read you should use the logarithmic ones since they don't "cut-off" at the end. Is that both for volume and tone (I need 1 volume and 2 tones) ? Any other advice I should take in account for the potentiometers, eg how do you know what knobs will fit on those meters? Any advice on the switch itself (5 way switch)? thanks :-)

        V.

        D Offline
        D Offline
        den2k88
        wrote on last edited by
        #8

        V. wrote:

        (though I don't know what the difference 250 vs 500 actually does)

        If I recall correctly it affects compatibility with amps. If you have a 250 ohm apparatus on one side and a 500 ohm on the other you would get noise and reduced volume since there would be reactive power on the line (which also creates static or semistatic waves).

        GCS d-- s-/++ a- C++++ U+++ P- L+@ E-- W++ N+ o+ K- w+++ O? M-- V? PS+ PE- Y+ PGP t+ 5? X R+++ tv-- b+(+++) DI+++ D++ G e++ h--- ++>+++ y+++*      Weapons extension: ma- k++ F+2 X

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        • V V 0

          I'm basically putting together a new guitar with an old body. I got a combination of Seymour Duncan Hot Rails and Cool Rails and now I'm figuring out the potentiometers. (1 of them has to be push/pull ;) ). The wiring scheme says 250 Ohm, so I got that (though I don't know what the difference 250 vs 500 actually does), but there is also a difference between a logarithmic ("audio") and a linear potentiometer. I read you should use the logarithmic ones since they don't "cut-off" at the end. Is that both for volume and tone (I need 1 volume and 2 tones) ? Any other advice I should take in account for the potentiometers, eg how do you know what knobs will fit on those meters? Any advice on the switch itself (5 way switch)? thanks :-)

          V.

          G Offline
          G Offline
          glennPattonWork3
          wrote on last edited by
          #9

          OK, use logarithmic pots for volume and for the tone circuit use logarthmic as Pete said, as your hearing is logarithmic, you can very quiet (pin dropping) to very loud (jet take off). The actual values 250K ohms is what Leo Fender used in the bass designs (I would be very supprised if he didn't use them in the Strat & Tele guitars). Actual value is a way of matching impedance, Gibson tended to use split coil humbuckers which needed a 500K to balance the impedance. I would install them to there final position and measure the height and width of the stem sticking out of the body/scratch plate before embarking on the quest to find them. As for the switch Fender used a three way but plays found sticking between position (usually taking a spring out) they could get more tones as the pickups would blend differently. So 5 Way for my view (saves on having to repair switch). Sorry its a bit long but you asked a subject I know some things about! :thumbsup: If you haven't checked it out have a look at Daves World of Fun Stuff on YouTube he's always doing something like that!

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          • V V 0

            I'm basically putting together a new guitar with an old body. I got a combination of Seymour Duncan Hot Rails and Cool Rails and now I'm figuring out the potentiometers. (1 of them has to be push/pull ;) ). The wiring scheme says 250 Ohm, so I got that (though I don't know what the difference 250 vs 500 actually does), but there is also a difference between a logarithmic ("audio") and a linear potentiometer. I read you should use the logarithmic ones since they don't "cut-off" at the end. Is that both for volume and tone (I need 1 volume and 2 tones) ? Any other advice I should take in account for the potentiometers, eg how do you know what knobs will fit on those meters? Any advice on the switch itself (5 way switch)? thanks :-)

            V.

            CPalliniC Offline
            CPalliniC Offline
            CPallini
            wrote on last edited by
            #10

            Quote:

            I'm basically putting together a new guitar with an old body.

            Does The Wife like guitar companionship? :-\

            In testa che avete, signor di Ceprano?

            1 Reply Last reply
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            • J Jorgen Andersson

              Peter_in_2780 wrote:

              or antilog, which can be hard to obtain

              Or reverse the wiring

              Wrong is evil and must be defeated. - Jeff Ello

              P Offline
              P Offline
              Peter_in_2780
              wrote on last edited by
              #11

              Jörgen Andersson wrote:

              Or reverse the wiring

              ... so he can turn it DOWN to 11? ;P

              Software rusts. Simon Stephenson, ca 1994. So does this signature. me, 2012

              S 1 Reply Last reply
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              • P Peter_in_2780

                Jörgen Andersson wrote:

                Or reverse the wiring

                ... so he can turn it DOWN to 11? ;P

                Software rusts. Simon Stephenson, ca 1994. So does this signature. me, 2012

                S Offline
                S Offline
                S Houghtelin
                wrote on last edited by
                #12

                Peter_in_2780 wrote:

                ... so he can turn it DOWN to 11?

                Would that make him nonplussed?

                It was broke, so I fixed it.

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                • OriginalGriffO OriginalGriff

                  CodeWraith wrote:

                  In any case: Resistance is Resistors are futile.

                  You will be integrated.

                  Bad command or file name. Bad, bad command! Sit! Stay! Staaaay... AntiTwitter: @DalekDave is now a follower!

                  S Offline
                  S Offline
                  S Houghtelin
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #13

                  In a parallel universe, of course.

                  It was broke, so I fixed it.

                  OriginalGriffO 1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • S S Houghtelin

                    In a parallel universe, of course.

                    It was broke, so I fixed it.

                    OriginalGriffO Offline
                    OriginalGriffO Offline
                    OriginalGriff
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #14

                    You cannot be series!

                    Bad command or file name. Bad, bad command! Sit! Stay! Staaaay... AntiTwitter: @DalekDave is now a follower!

                    "I have no idea what I did, but I'm taking full credit for it." - ThisOldTony
                    "Common sense is so rare these days, it should be classified as a super power" - Random T-shirt

                    S 1 Reply Last reply
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                    • OriginalGriffO OriginalGriff

                      You cannot be series!

                      Bad command or file name. Bad, bad command! Sit! Stay! Staaaay... AntiTwitter: @DalekDave is now a follower!

                      S Offline
                      S Offline
                      S Houghtelin
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #15

                      The potential can vary, but yes.

                      It was broke, so I fixed it.

                      1 Reply Last reply
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                      • V V 0

                        I'm basically putting together a new guitar with an old body. I got a combination of Seymour Duncan Hot Rails and Cool Rails and now I'm figuring out the potentiometers. (1 of them has to be push/pull ;) ). The wiring scheme says 250 Ohm, so I got that (though I don't know what the difference 250 vs 500 actually does), but there is also a difference between a logarithmic ("audio") and a linear potentiometer. I read you should use the logarithmic ones since they don't "cut-off" at the end. Is that both for volume and tone (I need 1 volume and 2 tones) ? Any other advice I should take in account for the potentiometers, eg how do you know what knobs will fit on those meters? Any advice on the switch itself (5 way switch)? thanks :-)

                        V.

                        R Offline
                        R Offline
                        Ron Anders
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #16

                        Wire it all straight to the jack and rock, rock, rock! Takes all the guesswork out. :thumbsup:

                        1 Reply Last reply
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                        • V V 0

                          I'm basically putting together a new guitar with an old body. I got a combination of Seymour Duncan Hot Rails and Cool Rails and now I'm figuring out the potentiometers. (1 of them has to be push/pull ;) ). The wiring scheme says 250 Ohm, so I got that (though I don't know what the difference 250 vs 500 actually does), but there is also a difference between a logarithmic ("audio") and a linear potentiometer. I read you should use the logarithmic ones since they don't "cut-off" at the end. Is that both for volume and tone (I need 1 volume and 2 tones) ? Any other advice I should take in account for the potentiometers, eg how do you know what knobs will fit on those meters? Any advice on the switch itself (5 way switch)? thanks :-)

                          V.

                          L Offline
                          L Offline
                          Lost User
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #17

                          [Here is how you can paint it](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXrMVO1-Hnk)

                          throughout my life, my two greatest assets have been mental stability and being, like, really smart.

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • V V 0

                            I'm basically putting together a new guitar with an old body. I got a combination of Seymour Duncan Hot Rails and Cool Rails and now I'm figuring out the potentiometers. (1 of them has to be push/pull ;) ). The wiring scheme says 250 Ohm, so I got that (though I don't know what the difference 250 vs 500 actually does), but there is also a difference between a logarithmic ("audio") and a linear potentiometer. I read you should use the logarithmic ones since they don't "cut-off" at the end. Is that both for volume and tone (I need 1 volume and 2 tones) ? Any other advice I should take in account for the potentiometers, eg how do you know what knobs will fit on those meters? Any advice on the switch itself (5 way switch)? thanks :-)

                            V.

                            G Offline
                            G Offline
                            glennPattonWork3
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #18

                            Just thought of a soucre for a myrad of knob pot covers. Banggood (https://www.banggood.com/) also a good place for other stuff!

                            1 Reply Last reply
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